KP Designs KP14e Super 1/5th Scale Bike Build Review

For this review we have a guest reviewer in the form of Jim Lee… take it away Jim.

I have been racing 1/10th Scale, 1/5th and 1/8th Scale Touring Cars and Buggies from the latter years of the 20th Century and although an actual 1/1 Scale Biker from my 16th Birthday, I’d seen and admired the 1/5th Scale Bikes at Craigavon Model Car Club I never really had the urge to give it a go……..

However, I was tempted to buy a good secondhand KP11 at the start of this season when the price was too good to say no to and it meant there would be another one on the grid for 2014.

What a learning curve I had taken on…..it was like learning to drive all over again but the more time spent learning the idiosyncrasies of how a Bike handles I was well and truly “Hooked”…..

The 2013 KP13e of Northern Irelands best ambassador for the sport on these shores, Davy Adair, was soon bought and as this Biking “Bug” bit harder, I decided to buy a new KP14e Super.

Back in my 1/8th Scale IC Racing days I was the proud owner of a PB Diamond which was a beautiful piece of engineering made of machined alloy and it came as no surprise that the KP range of Bikes were the brain child of the same designer of the Diamond, Mr Keith Plested.

Well the kit arrived in its box with a variety of sealed bags and instruction sheet.

I went for are the new HP 50 Semi pneumatic hydraulic Forks which come ready built as well as the alloy Headstock.

wpid-Photo01-2014-07-24-22-32.jpg

The instruction are quite explanatory and the photos alongside do help with the build. I suppose I’m too spoilt with the quality and clarity of the instruction manuals with a massed produced model.

wpid-Photo02-2014-07-24-22-32.jpg

All the parts went well together but I was disappointed in having to “polish” various shafts so they pushed smoothly through the ball races, a small point, but held up the build while I found some fine wet and dry, drill etc.

wpid-Photo03-2014-07-24-22-32.jpg

Doesn’t say which oil to put in the rear shock but I went with 40wt as I have that in my KP13. You can use some rubber fuel line each side of the shock top to keep it centralised if you wish.

wpid-Photo11-2014-07-24-22-32.jpg

Decided to put the shorted belt on and use the shorter wheel base as that seems to be what others with the KP14e are doing at Craigavon.

wpid-Photo05-2014-07-24-22-32.jpg

I went for the front brake as used in the Superbike and Superstock classes we race at Craigavon, which again, if you follow the instruction went together with no problems.
You will need a 3 channel Radio to run the 3rd servo which you link to the brakes channel.
I did put thread lock into the mounting posts as I fitted the brake pads rather than just on the threads before setting the gap of the pads as by the instructions on the sheet.
If you need to adjust these 2 screws while fitted on the bike I filed a semicircular groove in the spokes as in the photo to get at them easier, again a tip from Mr Adair….

wpid-Photo06-2014-07-24-22-32.jpg

wpid-Photo15-2014-07-24-22-32.jpg

You get 2 scratch bars with the kit which are long enough for a dry track, about 145mm….

Rather than just push one end in and then the other to form a semicircle, its better to put a right angle bend in at 45mm, then another after 45mm to leave the scratch bar “parallel” to the bike……in the wet them I’d suggest 80mm before the bend.

There is no suggestion as to how you hold in a lipo in the bike. We have learnt that Davy’s solution is to cut 2 slits as in the photo on the side plates….wide enough for tape.

wpid-Photo09-2014-07-24-22-32.jpg

From a roll of Tape, pull 100mm of tape through the slit from the inside out and stick this to double up the tape…..measure another 100mm and cut off…..feed this through the other slit to form a loop of tape into which the lipo fits and secure.

wpid-Photo12-2014-07-24-22-32.jpg

wpid-Photo13-2014-07-24-22-32.jpg

wpid-Photo14-2014-07-24-22-32.jpg

You’ll need to reshape the hole for the lipo power connecter as well to suit yours.

wpid-Photo10-2014-07-24-22-32.jpg

When you fit your electrics you will have to attach the steering servo arm to whatever manufacturers’ disk fits your servo. I also suggest you keep the steering rod parallel to the chassis bending it at the headstock before fitting and don’t put any pressure on the springs. Don’t forget to reverse the steering servo as well as the bike works with counter steering as a full size bike. This means that as you pull on the right handlebar the bike drops to the left and vice versa.

I fitted 2 carbon fibre pieces to the rear of the frame which I feel protects the body shell in your inevitable head over heels crashing and suggest these should be added to the original kit

wpid-Photo17-2014-07-24-22-32.jpg

Body Sets for 1/5th Scale Bikes are sometimes hard to source as the best in my opinion is the Thunder Tiger SB5 one which can be bought from the USA with 3 or 4 ready painted designs but you do have to allow for the extra expense for buying from abroad.

Having experienced my first Bike Build there were a few points I was disappointed with, some screws being missing and the wrong thickness of Headstock carbon fibre came with the kit, but a phone call to Keith and the correct items were straight in the post to me.

Having to polish, cut and reshape parts would be unexpected to someone building a KP kit for the first time but as I pointed out before someone buying a KP Bike would have had some experience racing a second-hand, prebuilt bike and have made the decision to buy possibly the best Two Wheeled Radio Controlled Bike on the market at the minute.